Organic Herb Garden

Angelica: A very tall biennial with large clusters of small greenish flowers. The main use is for a
condiment or confection. Hollow stems may be candied. Roots and leaves are collected in late summer of second year of growth.

Anise: A dainty annual that has finely cut, serrated leaves with very small, whitish flowers in flat
clusters. Leaves and seeds have a sweet taste that suggests licorice.

Basil: An annual that has light green or dark purple leaves. A number of varieties with different
growth habits are available. Flowers are small, white and appear in spikes. Spicy leaves have many
uses.

Bay, sweet: Also called laurel. Bay is an evergreen tree used as a potted plant in cold climates. This
plant produces the well-known bay leaf, which may be picked for use or dried at any time.

Borage: An annual with coarse, hairy leaves and attractive skyblue, star-shaped flowers. Flowers
and leaves give a cool, cucumberlike flavor to summer drinks. Attractive to bees.

Caraway: A biennial that flowers in flat, white clusters with very finely cut leaves like carrot
leaves. Caraway seeds are aromatic and are used as an ingredient of liqueurs. Popular for cooking.

Catnip: A hardy perennial with leaves that are green on top and gray underneath. Flowers grow in
purple spikes. It is used for tea and seasoning and is attractive to cats.

Chervil: An annual with lacy leaves like parsley but paler green. It has flat heads of white flowers
and is used like parsley.

Chives: Small, onionlike plant in clumps that produces light purple flowers. Useful as an
ornamental plant. Leaves provide onionlike flavor.

Cicely, sweet: Decorative fernlike downy leaves. White flowers in umbels. Needs partial shade.
Seeds are picked green and used fresh with other herbs. Leaves may be picked for use at any time. Once used as a sugar substitute and a furniture polish.

Comfrey: A very coarse perennial plant with prickly hairs on the leaves. Flowers may be yellowish
white or pink in drooping clusters. Leaves large and somewhat bitter.

Coriander: An annual with umbels of pinkish-white flowers and feathery leaves. Leaves have a somewhat disagreeable odor. Seeds are widely used in spice mixtures and curry powders. Seeds may be used whole or crushed.

Dill: An annual with dark green stems and feathery bluish-green leaves. Flowers are yellow in flat umbels. Chopped leaves and seeds have many uses.

Fennel: There are several species, but sweet fennel is considered most desirable. Leaves are bright green and delicate below umbels of yellow flowers. It has a faint anise fragrance. Traditionally used with fish, but now has many uses.

Horehound: A coarse perennial covered with whitish hairs. Leaves are crinkled. Leaves and small
stems should be cut before flowering begins. Most popular use is to flavor candy.

Hyssop: A hardy perennial with small, pointed leaves, spikes of blue flowers and woody stems.
Harvest only youngest leaves, which may be added to salads. Flavor is slightly bitter and minty.
Used to flavor liqueurs and sometimes as a condiment.

Lavender: Several different species may be grown, but the English lavender is considered the finest.
Plants are bushy with narrow grayish-green leaves. Flowers are bluish purple in spikes. All parts
of the plant contain the scent, but it is strongest in the flowers. Much used in potpourri and sachets.
Also used for tea.

Lemon balm: Perennial plant with light green, heart-shaped leaves that are deeply veined. Yellowishwhite flowers appear throughout the summer. May be harvested several times during the season, but first harvest is considered best. Many uses, but frequently added to jams, jellies and fruit salads.

Lemon verbena: Nonhardy, woody shrub for pots and indoor use. Long, pointed, dark green leaves come from each stem node in groups of three leaves. Lemon verbena adds a lemony taste to teas, cold drinks and jellies.

Lovage: A tall perennial plant with shiny, dark green leaves. Has hollow stems that terminate in clusters of yellow flowers. Leaves, young stems and roots are eaten. It gives a slightly spicy taste to many dishes or soups.

Marjoram, sweet: There are three major species, one of which is sometimes called oregano. Sweet
marjoram is used as an annual plant often with thyme. It is sweet and spicy. Plants are low growing with small, gray-green leaves on tough, woody stems. Flowerheads have small, pale mauve to white
flowers. The delicate flavor is most used for beef, game or poultry.

Myrtle: The true myrtle is a nonhardy evergreen shrub with small evergreen leaves and small,
creamy-white flowers that produce blue-black berries. Use as a pot or tub plant. Will take shearing
well. Leaves used in potpourri and herb sachets.

Oregano: A sprawling plant with leaves much coarser than sweet marjoram. Although called oregano, there is some disagreement as to the best source of the oregano flavor. Among other plants with an oregano flavor, Spanish thyme, Thymus nummularius, is an alternative.

Parsley: A biennial plant with often curly, dark green foliage. Seeds are slow to germinate. Well known and the most popular of all herbs.

Peppermint: A spreading plant with numerous upright shoots that may reach a height of 2 feet. Dark
green leaves are produced from reddish stems. Grows best in moist soils. Best cut just as flowering
begins. Mints can be invasive.

Rosemary: May grow outdoors for summer, but not winter-hardy outdoors. Needs sunny location and
well-drained soil. Can be pruned severely if necessary to keep in proportion with pot size. Popular for
veal, lamb, shellfish and other meats.

Sage: A woody plant with oblong leaves that have a wooly, gray-green covering that is
lighter on the bottom. May grow 2 feet high but tends to sprawl. Several forms are available, including purple-leaved, variegated-leaved and dwarf growing. Needs a sunny location and well-drained soil. Used with meats and dressings.

Sage, pineapple: Not reliably winter- hardy and should be overwintered in pots. Has rough, pointed
leaves and attractive cardinal red flowers. Used to give a pineapple scent to potpourris or to add flavor to drinks such as iced tea.

Savory, summer: Produces small, bronze-green leaves and small white or lavender flowers. The
small leaves are less conspicuous than the stems. Cut when in bud and hang to dry. Used as a condiment for meats and vegetables.

Savory, winter: This woody plant has shiny, pointed, dark green leaves and small white or lavender
flowers. Needs a well-drained, sandy soil. Dead branches should be trimmed out. May be picked
and dried at any time.

Spearmint: Has slightly crinkled leaves lighter green than peppermint. Needs moist soil, but very hardy. Leaves and stems may be picked anytime. For drying, pick stems as flowering begins. Leaves
used in cold drinks or to make mint sauce.

Tarragon: Has somewhat twisted, narrow, dark green leaves. Grows best in partial shade. Fairly hardy, but needs winter protection to ensure survival in colder climates. Leaves and stems are used fresh to flavor vinegar. Flavor is lost during drying.

Thyme: Stems are low-growing, wiry and woody. Leaves are small and usually gray-green. Needs
bright light and well-drained soil. Plants are not long-lived and may need replacement every few years. Other forms of thyme are also useful and attractive. Mother-ofthyme is a prostrate-growing
species only a few inches in height. Lemon thyme is also popular. All thyme species may be used for
seasoning food. Shoots should be harvested while in flower.

Woodruff, sweet: A low-growing perennial with shiny leaves in whorls around each stem. Should be grown in shady, woodland sites for best growth. Remove leaves just as the herb comes into flower or during flowering. Has been used for potpourri or strewn in storage cupboards and among linen. Used for the May cup or May wine. Best flavor occurs after leaves have wilted slightly.

Soil Improvement

The best way to know what your soil needs is to test it every two or three years.
Soil tests that are commonly offered include:
pH - determines the acidity of your soil and estimates how much lime is needed to
adjust the pH to an optimal level.
Nutrients - determines the levels of available plant nutrients. Often, labs don't
bother to test for nitrogen, since this test is often misleading. Around our area you
can assume your soil needs moderate inputs of nitrogen every year. Some labs test
for calcium. This is unnecessary too, since you will be adding lime (calcium
carbonate) for pH balance anyhow.

Organic matter - determines the percentage of organic material in your sample.

Soil texture - determines the percentages of sand, silt and clay in the soil and
classifies it by texture according to the USDA system (ex. silty loam). Since your
soil texture is not going to change, you have to request this test only the first time.

Heavy metals - determines whether your soil contains abnormally high levels of
toxic heavy metals. Sometimes the test is strictly for lead, the most common garden
heavy metal contaminate. Usually if levels are elevated, recommendations will be
included on steps to take to counteract the danger.
Whatever test you do the procedure for taking the sample is the same. Each area
where the soil looks different or has been treated differently should be tested
separately. Don't sample in abnormal spots like right next to a fence, driveway,
sidewalk or building.
Don't sample a soil that has just been fertilized or limed. Make sure your shovel and
bucket are not contaminated from the last time you fertilized. Any of these things
could throw the results way off.
There will be variations even within a rather homogeneous area, so the sample you
send should be a mix of several samples. Using a clean trowel or spade, take thin
vertical slices of soil from about 10 locations within the area they are to represent.
Put them in a clean bucket and mix thoroughly. From this, take the cup or whatever
amount your lab requests. For most purposes you will want to sample the top 6-8
inches. For fruit you should go down to 8-10 inches.

How to Plant Asparagus

Asparagus is one of the more expensive vegetables to purchase, whether canned, frozen, or fresh; but few vegetable crops in Oklahoma are easier to grow or more consistent in production.
One of the earliest spring vegetables to be harvested, asparagus is an excellent source of substantial quantities of minerals and vitamins.
Asparagus (Asperagus officinalis) is a hardy perennial plant, which produces edible stems (spears). Plants may grow to a height of four to eight feet and are branched. Although native to central Asia, it is grown throughout the world. For more than 2,000 years, it has been cultivated and used for food and medicine. Early colonists brought it to America as seed. It is now grown in most states and Canadian provinces.

Varieties
The most commonly available varieties are Mary and Martha Washington. Asparagus rust sometimes becomes a problem due to cool, wet weather. These varieties have limited resistance to this disease.

Climate
Asparagus requires a dormant period during which considerable chemical change takes place in the reserve food supply stored in the roots. Winter conditions in Oklahoma are sufficient to allow these chemical changes to take place.

Soil Preparation
Since asparagus plants remain vigorous and productive for as long as 15 years, it’s worth the time to correctly and thoroughly prepare the soil with the necessary organic matter and fertilizer before planting. Asparagus can be grown on many kinds of soil, but sandy-loam soils with a less porous-type subsoil are best. Good drainage is essential.
Add to your sandy loam soil two to four inches of organic matter. Incorporate this into the soil to a depth of six to eight inches. Add commercial fertilizer as needed. (Determine kind and amount by a soil test.)
Make annual applications of commercial fertilizer as indicated by soil tests, plant growth, and production. This might be in the range of one-half to one pound of actual nitrogen per 50 feet of row and applied broadcast in early March. A similar amount may be applied following harvest. This will stimulate top growth, resulting in more food produced and stored for next year’s productions.
In soils slightly to moderately acid (pH 6.5-5.5), applications of agricultural limestone may be very beneficial. Broadcast four to eight pounds of agricultural limestone per 50 feet of asparagus row. One application may be sufficient for two or three years, depending on rainfall and soil tests.

Planting
Asparagus may be grown as individual plants in a row in the garden or as clumps in the yard. Locate the planting on the side of the garden where it will least interfere with other gardening activities.
Planting may be done during the late fall, winter, or early spring. Plant growth is greatly influenced by adequate soil moisture. Good fern growth one year can result in high yields the following season.
Select a sunny location where there is a minimum of competition from the roots of trees and shrubs. Use one year-old asparagus crowns for planting.
Place the crowns approximately six to eight inches deep, 18 inches apart in the row, with the rows four to five feet apart. In heavier soils, it may be best to set plants no more than four inches deep. When properly grown, the plants have a very extensive root system. Dig the holes large enough and deep enough that the roots of the plant can be spread out properly and allowed to grow normally.
Cover the crowns with two or three inches of soil. Allow the soil to settle around the plants. Continue filling later in the year, after growth has begun. This accomplishes two things: 1) it covers up small grass and weed plants down in the hole or trench and 2) it allows asparagus to develop more extensively than it would if it were to grow through six to eight inches of soil in the very beginning.

Growth and Harvesting
The quantity and quality of asparagus produced depend on the amount of food stored in the plant’s roots and crowns from the previous season of growth. This is why it is so important to allow the plant to become well established the first season without any harvest. Plants need to develop to a large size in order to produce an abundance of stored food.
Start harvesting with the third year. Harvest only as long as a quantity of stored food in the crown will permit. You may harvest until the diameter of the newly emerging spears is small—perhaps 3/8" in diameter. This indicates the total amount of stored food remaining in the crown is rather limited. Do not harvest anymore. This will allow the plant to produce foliage and manufacture food for adequate production the following year.

Length of Harvest Season. A dry season, a lack of sufficient fertilizer, competition by grasses and weeds, plants spaced too closely, or shaded too much are factors that can materially reduce the length of the harvest period as well as the total yield. The following suggested length of harvest season is at best approximation:
• first summer–no harvest
• second summer–harvest two to three weeks
• third summer–four to six weeks
• fourth and succeeding summers–eight to twelve weeks. (If the plants have not been properly grown, the length of the harvest season might be only half as long as otherwise suggested.) Rather than using a given number of weeks, however, it is best to rely on the plant itself, using the size of the spears to determine the length of harvest.

Harvesting Methods. Harvest in the early spring as the first spears appear and continue to harvest all the spears for the entire harvest period. If the very small spears are not removed during harvest, there may be fewer new spears produced, thus a reduction in total yield. Sufficient top growth on the plant usually stops further spear production.
The best time to harvest is during the morning when the stems or spears are crisp and turgid. They snap more easily and usually contain less fiber.
A spear should be five to seven inches long when harvested. Snap or break the spears slightly above the ground. A spear that is bent over breaks or snaps at the base of the succulent portion of the stem and leaves the fibrous portion in the earth.
Refrigerate harvested asparagus spears as soon as possible. Room temperature storage will cause them to develop toughening fibers and lose nutritive value.

How to plant peppers

Pepper plants grow best in warm, well-drained soils of moderate fertility. The plants are not particularly sensitive to soil pH, but best results are obtained in the 6.0 to 6.8 range.
Peppers are a warm-season crop and need a long season for maximum production. Temperature has a large effect on the rate of plant and fruit growth and the development and quality of the red or yellow pigments. Ideal temperature for red pigment development is 65–75° F. Above this range the red color becomes yellowish. Below it, color development slows dramatically and stops completely below 55° F. Pepper plants can be purchased at garden centers or started indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the intended outdoor planting date. Transplant peppers into the garden after the danger of frost is past. In central Iowa, May 15 is the suggested planting date. Gardeners in southern Iowa can plant one week earlier, while those in northern areas should wait an extra week. The last practical date for planting peppers is approximately June 20. Water plants thoroughly after transplanting.

Spacing

Space plants 18 inches apart in rows
24 to 30 inches apart.

Estimated yield

Average yield with good management practices should
be approximately 80 pounds per 10-foot row.

Fertilizing
 
It is generally safe to apply 2 to 3 pounds of 5-10-5 per 100 square feet to the garden area where peppers will be planted. Conduct a soil test for specific P and K recommendations. After transplanting, feed the pepper plants with a starter fertilizer solution. Dissolve 2 tablespoons of a 5-10-5 fertilizer in a gallon of water, then pour 1 cup of the solution at the base of each plant.

Harvest and storage

Hot peppers and bell peppers can be harvested in the immature green stage or when fully ripe. They can be eaten fresh, used in sauces, pickled, frozen, or dried. Bell peppers are usually harvested when large and firm in the immature green stage. They also may be allowed to fully ripen to red, yellow, orange, purple, or other colors. Fully ripe bell peppers are slightly sweeter and have a higher vitamin content than do the immature green peppers. Fresh peppers may be stored for up to 3 weeks in cool,
moist conditions (45 to 50° F. and 85 to 90 percent relative humidity).

Western huckleberries

We use the name huckleberry for many different plants throughout North America. The most widely known huckleberries are native to the eastern and southeastern United States and belong to four species found in the genus Gaylussacia. This genus is not found in the western United
States. Western huckleberries belong to the genus Vaccinium. Their flowers and fruit resemble those of highbush and lowbush blueberries, which are also Vaccinium species. Western huckleberries, however, are in a different taxonomic section (Myrtillus) than highbush and lowbush blueberries
(Cyanococcus). The primary difference is that huckleberries produce single berries in the axils
of leaves on new shoots. Highbush and lowbush blueberries develop clusters of berries on 1-year-old wood, producing greater yields than do huckleberries.
The section Myrtillus contains eight species, commonly called huckleberries, blueberries, bilberries, and whortleberries. All produce edible fruit, but only two species, Vaccinium membranaceum and V. deliciosum, are harvested to a large degree. The other species are not widely distributed or have fruits that are small or poorly flavored.

Did you know?

• Western huckleberries contain more flavor chemicals than blueberries, explaining their more intense flavor.

• Although huckleberries thrive high in Northwest mountains, they often die of winter cold when transplanted to lower elevations. That’s because they need an insulating layer of snow to survive cold snaps.

• Western huckleberries grow best in soils rich in organic matter and low in pH.

• Western huckleberries easily grow from seed, but take 2 to 5 years to flower.

Gardening Tools

An efficient garden that’s fun to work in requires the correct tools. It is not necessary to have a lot of tools, but they should be good quality. All gardeners will require the following:

1.     A shovel or a spade . Shovels are long-handled and have wide, rounded blades. Spades are shorter and usually have narrow blades. Sharpshooter shovels are spades. I prefer a longhandled shovel for nearly every gardening task from spading soil to planting and transplanting shrubs. The shorter spade is stronger but harder to use. The spade works well to dig a raised bed or a post hole. It is also a good tool for prying, cutting larger roots and even spading. All gardeners should have one or the other, and both would be a good investment.

2.     A hoe. The hoe is a universal gardening tool. There are dozens of kinds, sizes and shapes. The standard square-bladed gooseneck hoe is the one to begin with. It is suitable for removing weeds as well as opening and closing furrows for seeding. Other hoes can be added if and when you need them.

3.    A rake. The bow rake is essential for smoothing and leveling seed beds. It may also be used to cover planting furrows, move mulches, clean up debris and kill emerging weeds.

4.   A trowel. Buy a good trowel, 3 or 4 inches wide. Use it to transplant small plants, open short rows, dig small holes and even to weed and cultivate around small plants.

5.   Small supplies . Use twine and stakes for marking rows, maintaining straight rows and supporting plants. A bucket for carrying fertilizer and water to the garden and vegetables to the house is very helpful. A hose is essential for irrigation. Perhaps the most essential small tool is a good-quality file. Carry it with you when you work in the garden and use it frequently to keep tools sharp.

Store all tools away from sun and rain. Weather will deteriorate and roughen handles, as well as rust metal parts. Rust can be prevented by wiping a light coating of oil on metal after use. Rough handles can be smoothed with sandpaper. Well-cared for tools are easier to use and last much longer.
You will want to add additional tools and equipment as your needs grow and finances permit. The following items will prove useful:
                                      1. Watering cans, hoes, nozzles and sprinklers for watering.
                                      2. A spading fork for soil preparation and harvesting root crops.
                                      3. A manure fork for turning compost and moving garden residues.
                                      4. A wheelbarrow or garden cart for hauling large amounts of soil, fertilizer,    plant residues or produce.
                                      5. A rototiller for preparing large areas of soil and controlling weeds.
There are many sizes and types of rototillers. The large machines with tines in front of the wheels are the standard. They are less expensive and do a good job breaking up compacted soil, but require considerable physical strength to use. Large, reartine machines are much easier to use and
more suited to large garden areas, but they are also considerably more expensive to purchase. They do a better job of preparing a seedbed, especially in wet soils. The last few years have seen the development of small rototillers weighing only about 20 pounds with an effective tilling width of 9 to 12 inches. These machines are too small for breaking up large gardens or sod, but they are excellent for working up a row in a previously turned garden or to remove weeds. They are especially good at working wet soil into a suitable seedbed.

Blackberries and Raspberries in Home Gardens

Blackberries and raspberries (brambles) are a commonly planted small fruit in home gardens.
They have vigorous growth, are seldom injured by spring frost and consistently produce high-quality
fruit. The fruit is used for jams, jellies, pies and as a fresh fruit. Because of their vigorous growth,
brambles should be planted in an area where they can be contained. They lend themselves as effective
screens along property lines in landscapes. A reduction in the availability of wild berries make these fruits even more popular in home plantings. By choosing different types of brambles, you can
harvest fresh fruit five to six months each year.

Types of Blackberries

Both thorned and thornless blackberries grow well in Tennessee. Each type has its advantages and
disadvantages, though the sharp barbs on the thorned type are a negative factor when grown in
the home landscape.

Thorned blackberries do not require a trellis, mature their fruit two to three weeks earlier than the thornless varieties and usually have sweeter fruit at maturity. They are propagated by root suckers.

Thornless blackberries are easier to prune and maintain. They produce trailing canes 8 to 12 feet

long that are not strong enough to support themselves and require some type of trellis support.
They are propagated by tip layering. Sometimes thornless fruit will sunburn because they mature in
the hotter part of the summer.

Types of Raspberries

summer-bearing, red-fruited

black-fruited

purple-fruited

fall-bearing, red-fruited

Summer-bearing, red-fruited raspberries produce one large crop of fruit in the summer. They usually reproduce by root suckers and may produce a thick hedge after three or four years. 

Black-fruited raspberries are not as productive in Tennessee as some of the other types, because of their susceptibility to diseases. They usually do not produce root suckers and are propagated by tip
layering. Their canes are not very erect and require trellising. 

Purple raspberries mature later in the summer than the red-fruited raspberries . They are vigorous but usually require trellising. They are propagated by tip layering.

Fall-bearing, red-fruited raspberries produce both a fall crop and early summer crop. The fall
crop is the largest and produced on the upper portion of the cane, while the smaller summer crop
is produced on the lower portion of the cane. Fallbearing raspberries are often managed for a fall crop
only. With this method, all canes are cut at the ground and removed in late winter. The new canes
that emerge during the spring will fruit that fall. This is the only type of bramble that will produce
fruit the year the canes emerge. All other brambles (both types of blackberries and all other raspberries) produce vegetative canes one year, that fruit and die the next year. Therefore, canes which have fruited must selectively be removed with the vegetative canes left for next year’s crop.

Selecting and Preparing a Planting Site

If possible, plant blackberries and raspberries a  minimum of 300 feet away from wild or existing
plantings of brambles, to reduce the potential for disease problems. Avoid areas where tomatoes,
potatoes or eggplants have recently been grown, to reduce the potential for verticillium wilt. Plant on  a north-facing slope or hillside to reduce injury from spring frost. Almost any soil type, except those that are sandy, poorly drained or droughty, is suitable. The first step in preparing a site is to take a soil
sample. Sample boxes and information sheets are available at your county Extension office. Work lime and fertilizer into the soil before planting, in
accordance with soil test recommendations. Lay out the row area and kill any weeds or grasses within

that area. This should be done in advance of planting so any weed regrowth can be killed.

Planting Correctly

Brambles can be planted any time they are dormant, usually from Nov. 1 to March 15. If a fall
planting is made, a mulch at the base of the plant may reduce winter injury.
Either root cuttings or root suckers can be planted. If root cuttings are used, plant them about
3 to 4 inches deep. If root suckers are used, make holes large enough and deep enough to completely
spread the roots. Once planting is done, firm the soil around the plant and water well.
Spacings used for blackberries and raspberries are listed below: